There are some things you can
only learn by actually travelling. If travelling around the coast of Africa
with a notebook for 13 months, through 31 countries and crossing 36 frontiers, taught
me anything it was to never be mistaken for a journalist (or an Israeli). It is
one of the reasons – the others being poverty, and a desire for interaction and
immersion with local communities – that I choose to take so little technology
with me when I travel.
Having only an old Nokia 3100 mobile
phone to hand, which failed to even send text messages without local SIM card
swaps in several countries, meant I was reliant on local interaction to find
and use internet cafes in order to blog and communicate in more than 140 characters
with the outside world. It also meant I couldn’t possibly be working for any international
media organisation, which I found to be an important protection.
For example, I was asked in
crossing from Liberia to Cรดte d’Ivoire if I was an undercover
journalist. ‘They send people like you, alone and with backpacks, to trick us’
I was told by the single border official at the River Cavally. It was election
day for the presidency, and the eyes of the world’s media were taking rare aim
at Liberia.
During a six hour border crossing
from troubled post-Gaddafi Libya into Tunisia, the border guards were convinced
my list of ferry crossings made me a journalist, at least until they found a
small soft toy camel with ‘I love Egypt’ stitched onto its side in my bag. Had they
delved further they would have found some business cards (which had themselves ignited
conversation on the border between Guinea-Bissau and Guinea), some dirty
washing (always at the top of my bag to dissuade more in-depth searches), a
small library of books, and several more notebooks. They would have found no
technology.
Leaving Ethiopia for Sudan, the
border official was surprised by my lack of laptop, or money, and by the small size of
the compact digital camera with which I took all my photographs. Uniformed officers
and general populations alike were also frequently surprised by the fact that I
chose to travel overland. ‘Why on earth do you want to spend time in Africa of
all places?’ they would ask. ‘Why aren’t you travelling by air instead?’ Whatever
answer I would give them, I could see that often the only answer they heard was that
I must be a journalist.
No comments:
Post a Comment